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To the “Enquirer,” Richmond, Va.:
This, I presume, is the first letter ever received by you
from the ‘Island World.’ It is written to afford some little information to
your readers, and to friends, who have kindly requested letters on the subject.
To comply with each individual request for “a letter” would be impossible, and
I therefore throw myself on your kindness and ask its publication.
Outside of New England very little seems known respecting
these beautiful and interesting Islands:- when about to visit them, on a late
occasion, in taking leave of friends in Virginia and Washington, some of them
appeared alarmed at the idea that your correspondent should venture to go to a
land inhabited by “cannibals.” I hope after they read this letter, they will
have no fears that I shall be “killed and eaten up,” unless, indeed, it shall
be done by kindness, such as never has been exceeded by any people, in whose
midst my lot has been cast.
In the year 1778 the Islands were discovered by Cook, and
the whole group, eight in number, were supposed to contain a population of some
four hundred thousand, quiet, peaceable and contented ‘Polynesians,’ living of
course, in a primitive state-but happy. From various causes the number at
present is much diminished. Some thirty or forty years since the missionaries
made their appearance; and it is but simple justice to them to say, that they
have done much toward Christianizing the natives- (I will not say civilizing
them, for it is difficult to imagine, to see them in their present state, that
they ever were otherwise than a civil race). They have done much towards
educating them. Most excellent schools and colleges have been established, and
are in successful operation; and already some of the natives (and among them
the present King) have been well educated, and reflect great credit on their
institutions.
THE GOVERNMENT
Is conducted under a written constitution, which in its
provisions is liberal and enlightened-it is modeled very much after some of our
State Governments- the “Laws enacted by the King, the Nobles and Representatives
in Legislative Council” are respected by all and rigidly enforced.
THE KING
Is a well educated and talented man-dignified and
gentlemanly in his deportment; is very well informed; speaks and writes the
English language very well; has traveled in the United States and Europe. He
lives in great comfort, quite as much as the President of the United States;
has an ample income, and is much respected by foreigners, and loved by the
natives. He is only twenty-seven years of age. He appoints his successor.
THE QUEEN
Is only about twenty-one years of age; said to be very
charitable, good-hearted and kind to her people, who appear to idolize her.
THE CABINET
Consists of “a Minister or Foreign Relations,” “a Minister
of Finance” and “a Minister of the Interior.” The first is filled by a talented
Scotch gentlemen, who has been much in the United States, and holds our
institutions and Government in very high estimation. He holds office not for
its salary, (he being very wealthy and without a family) but solely to give the
Government the benefit of his experience and services.
The office the Minister of Finance is held by our late
United States Commissioner from Illinois, a native of New York. He is a
gentleman of fine talents and general information.
The Minister of the Interior is a native, brother of the
King. He is well educated and is very popular. On the whole, the Government is
a very good one.
THE NATIVES, HABITS,
&.
As I have already said, the natives are quiet and happy,
easily governed, kind in their disposition, very friendly to all foreigners,
and especially Americans. Many of them are well educated, especially the
females, who are intelligent and genteel. The higher class dress with great
aste, and life the foreigners, some of them are pretty. The lower class, kanakas, (men), also dress like foreigners, but the wahine (women) of that class dress in very loose dresses,
often made of fine silks, but frequently go barefooted. All classes, native and foreign, ride on horseback,
and at full speed. The wahines ride as fast as men do, and very gracefully. It
is a fine sight to see of an evening hundreds of them on horseback, with long
scarfs “thrown to the breeze.” All classes look neat and clean. No people pay
greater attention tom personal cleanliness. As a race, the natives, in size and
personal appearance, I think are greatly superior to the Chinese, Japanese, or
any of the Polynesian race I have seen.
AREA OF THE ISLANDS,
CLIMATE, &
The whole area of all the islands is about six thousand
square miles, or three million, eight hundred and forty thousand acres. They
are within an area of about three hundred and fifty miles, and in latitude from
20 to 22 they are called the “pathway” to China and Japan. The climate is a
very equably one. The thermometer varying from 68 to 80 all year round. It is
never oppressively hot in the day, and always pleasant at night, never too warm
to dispense with a blanket.
PRODUCTION
Every species of fruit raised in the tropics, are grown on
some of the Islands, and very many kinds not found on other islands. The same
may be said of vegetables of almost every kind. Wheat and Indian corn, in some
localities, are successfully cultivated, especially wheat. Coffee of a very
superior quality has heretofore been extensively and profitably raised. But
within the last year or two, an insect has attacked and injured the trees. It
is said to be similar to the insects which have done much damage to other
coffee growing countries, and for a time almost put a stop to its cultivation,
and then wholly disappeared. Doubtless it will be the same on these Islands.
Sugar is, and will no doubt continue to be, the great staple of the Islands.
The cane continues to grow for two years, and attains a size which is almost
incredible. It “rations” from eight to ten years-never, of course, being
injured by frosts, as they are unknown. The quantity raised is about two tons
to an acre-often four and six have been raised-which commands in the San
Francisco market from eight to nine cents per pound. Labor (in abundance) is
obtained at from five to six dollars per month, and the whole cost of feeing
(the only expense) is about two dollars per month. Lands of a very fine quality
can be purchased at from five to ten dollars. It will be seen from the above
that sugar can be raised at three cents per pound, and that the profit is
immense. The quality of that now being made is very superior.
Grazing is also an extensive and profitable business. The
increase of cattle is so great that many thousands have to be killed off to
keep the stocks under, and the hides alone saved. I may mention in this
connection, that in the year 1793 Vancouver placed on one of the Islands, four
head of cattle only, and from their increase some thirty thousand have been
killed, and the same number still remains. The beef and mutton are very
superior-quite equal to any in Virginia. The living on the Islands is equal to
any anywhere. Fish and fowls tame and wild, are supplied in great abundance,
and of fine quality. The best fish are kept in large ponds, fed as we feed our
poultry, and taken out when wanted.
TRADE
About eight-tenths of the trade of the islands is with the
United States-the larger portion with California. There is, however, a good
deal of trade and intercourse with China, Japan, England and France, Germany,
&c. Some fifteen or Twenty Governments are represented here by Consuls. The
whale fishery, carried on in American vessels, is immense. In former time, some
eight or ten millions of dollars worth of oil and bone come into this port
alone annually, and some two hundred ships were employed in the business. Of
late years, the business has, from various causes, greatly diminished. Still it
is of very great importance.
FOREIGN POPULATION
This is said to be the only foreign port in the world in
which Americans outnumber all others. The foreigners are, generally speaking,
very well informed, and most of them have traveled a great deal and have seen
much of the world, and of course have enlarged and liberal views. They are very
social, very friendly and moral. The churches (of which they have quite a large
number) are better attended than in any country I have seen. They have
excellent Ministers, to whom the congregations are much attached. I may mention
among them the Rev. S.C. Damon and the Rev. Eli Corwin. I mention these two not
to disparage others, but because it has been my good fortune to become better
acquainted with them than others.
CURIOSITIES
The great volcano on the island of Hawaii is said to be one
of the grandest in the world, and is visited by all travelers who visit the
North Pacific. I have not seen it yet, but design doing so in May, when I will
attempt to give you a description of that, and many other things which may be
worth writing about. I may here say that I have been favored with a view of the
‘Robes’ worn by the King and Queen in state occasions. They are made of the
feathers of birds interwoven in fine canvas. The colors are varied, rich and
beautiful, only two feathers from each bird. Many, many millions of birds must
have been caught, and the two feathers only taken from their plumage. It is
said that it has required some seventy or eighty years to complete them. Of
course no monied value can be placed on them. When we reflect that all this was
the work of “Nature,” having at that day no intercourse with the world, they
are indeed remarkable.
THE CITY OF HONOLULU
The population is about twelve or thirteen thousand. The
dwelling houses, many of them built of coral, are very comfortable, and many of
them spacious. They are built in the rear of the streets, and the yards are
filled with ornamental trees, flowers and shrubbery, all having an air or
neatness and comfort. But that which would look strange to us, is to see a
considerable town built up without a single chimney. Of course they are not
required, as fires are never wanted. On the whole, it is a most agreeable place
for a residence. The society, male and female, is very pleasant. I must close
this crude letter.
